
A blood red moon hung in the horizon as we crested the hill at the turnoff point to the Great Salt Petre Cave; site of the twentieth annual Karst O’Rama or KOR as it was commonly called. KOR often attracts over 600 people, strongly disproportionately male and many in my age range.
Heidi and I gasped as we gazed and I scrambled to find a place to pull over so that I could take this picture. We had been giggling the entire 3 hour trip, stopping only once to run through McDonalds to grab a sandwich and fries, and to peruse the convenience store when we stopped for gas. I had forgotten to pack spare batteries , so I bought some and while we were there, I decided to remember the boy scout motto and purchased condoms. Because I’m an optimist, I bought some XXL, and because I’m a realist, I also bought some extra thin because any lover I was likely to meet would probably be over the age of 50.
I didn’t need the condoms.
I was, as usual, attracted to the two most unavailable men out of the 450 that were there. One of them, lean and lanky with a lazy smile and strikingly blue eyes, with a life force so strong it was almost tangible, bearing an uncanny resemblance to Magic Man, was married within the past month to a lovely and sweet woman who I enjoyed getting to know. The second one, tall, dark, Russian accent, was painfully shy and could not possibly have been less interested in my attentions.
I had a great time anyway.
Caver folks are notoriously friendly, free spirited, tree huggers who religiously recycle, pick up other folks’ litter, and honor nature. They are respectful of others and constantly offer to lend a helping hand. I was in good company, albeit alone in a crowd, but I’m getting used to that whole concept.
I missed my first caving expedition at 10:00 because I didn’t pay attention, and partook of the 2:00pm lantern tour of the Great Salt Petre Cave instead.

Seven of us sauntered down the wide caverns, admiring the ages old cave scrawlings and the remnants of the gunpowder mining that occurred two centuries before. I saw salamanders and cave crickets and some interesting rock formations.


The next day, my real caving adventure began. I was signed up for a trip to the Climax Cave along with seven other people with varied caving experience. This was my first “real” expedition, so I listened attentively and tried very hard to do what I was told. We crawled into the cave, which should have been my first clue because I ended up doing a lot of crawling over the next three hours. Crawling, in my opinion, means that you are on your hands and knees, ambulating thus, over the terrain. In caving terminology, crawling also means creeping, or sliding on your belly, propelled forward by your feet pushing against the dirt and by your forearms, grasping at the earth, pulling your body along.
I did a lot of creeping through Climax cave.
There was one passage called the birth canal. The guy ahead of me, about 5’10 and 170 pounds, eased through it, and encouraged me to try. I looked down at my forty-nine year old momma’s body, the peasant stock hips and queried our fearless leader.
“Are you sure I’ll fit?”
“Yes, I’m sure you’ll fit. Lie down on your right side, and pull yourself forward.”
I moved in a few feet.
“I’m not so sure.”
“You’ll fit. Just keep putting one foot in front of the other.”
“One foot? I can’t even feel my feet, much less move them.”
By that time, I was wedged into a rock formation closely resembling my nether regions, curving and twisting, about two feet tall and a foot and a half high. Halfway through, I felt the first pangs of hysteria.
“I’m not going to fit.”
“Yes, you are, you are almost all the way through. Just keep at it.”
I tried to calm myself. I took a deep breathe, which considering the constrictures all around me, might not have been a good idea. MWR-Guy had given me a coverall. The first one I tried on, made of course, for a man, would not fit over my ample hips. The one I was wearing was considerably larger, and longer. The hem of the pant leg was stuck under my right boot so that every time I pushed with my feet, the coverall caught and tried to pull my right arm back. Simultaneously, I was trying to push my right arm forward so that I could pull my body on through the tiny tunnel.
I wasn’t going anywhere. I couldn’t move. My arm was immobilized underneath me, pushing with my feet made it worse.
I started to panic again. I cursed MWR-Guy, my caver buddy, a man I trusted with my very soul. That scoundrel had talked me into caving, had assured me I would love it, but all I was loving right now was the thought of throttling him. What the hell was he thinking! What the hell was I thinking! What the hell was I doing, crouched in this tube of stone.
My helmet slipped over my eyes, but I couldn’t move my arms or my legs and was helpless to do anything to adjust it. Panic bubbled again.
“I don’t know what to do” I whispered to the guide, hunched in an alcove about ten feet away from me. “I can’t move my right arm because it is stuck under me and I can’t seem to move my feet.”
“Can you move your left arm?” he queried logically.
“Yeah, I guess I can.”
“Push your pack and your camera ahead of you with your left arm, then see if you can grasp the rocks above you and pull yourself up slightly, just enough to loosen your right arm.”
I let out my breath, did what he said, kicked the coverall away from my boots so that I could get some traction in the gritty bottom of the cave tube and pushed myself another six inches forward. The tube widened ever so slightly and I was able to partially extricate my right arm. I did the same thing another couple times and tumbled into the alcove where he was waiting.
Without missing a beat, knowing somehow, that he would have to keep me moving or I’d lose my resolve, which much to my dismay, involved another ten feet of tubular cave tunnel. I followed him, hiking up the coveralls so that I wouldn’t repeat the paralyzing problem I’d encountered in the prior portion of the cave.
The tube opened into a wide, cavernous room. I expected a gush of amniotic fluid as I slid headfirst onto the rocks, understanding exactly why they called it the “birth canal”. Everyone else made it through as well and after resting for ten minutes, we soldiered forward through the rest of the cave.


A bat to match the henna tatoo on my ankle.


I have never been so tired in all my life than I was when I got back to camp. I was tired and hungry and euphoric. I’d made it through the cave in one piece (or should I say “peace”?) and was so fucking proud of myself. I sat in a camp chair for three hours afterwards, letting other campers get me food, bring me a drink, paint a bat shaped hemp stain on my ankle. I drank a coke for the first time in months, thinking I needed the caffeine to keep me awake for the drive home.
The next day, every muscle in my body hurt. I hobbled around at home, headed for a client, worked for a few hours, made my excuses and hauled my ass back home. Chemistry Guy called to confirm our dinner plans for Wednesday and listened sympathetically to my tale of discomfort, offering me the services of his Jacuzzi bathtub and nimble fingers.
I thought long and hard on that one.
I wasn’t dating anyone. I was in great pain. It was the week after my period. I was lonely. I liked him. I went.
I felt much better afterwards.
I’ve had a lot of time to reflect on my caving experience. While I was down in the cave, on my hands and knees or on my belly, mud squishing around me, water dripping on my head, claustrophobic panic bubbling up my spine, I vowed never to allow myself in that position again. But after I was out, after the adrenaline subsided, after I could breathe the sweet air of freedom, I was exhilarated. I couldn’t wait to get back in there, to overcome adversity, to conquer my fear.
After all, isn’t that the whole point of being on this earth, to conquer our fears?
Standing outside the cave, pulling off our muddy coveralls and boots, shucking our gloves and our hardhats, one of the cavers pulled out from his pack all of the cave trash he’d collected while we were down under. Cans and wrappers and plastic bags spilled from his pack into a trash bag.
I hadn’t seen any of that stuff while I was in the throes of survival down in the cave. The more experienced cavers such as this guy, see more and seek to keep the caves as natural as possible. They say to cave softly…
and leave only footprints.